Gentlemen, do you still remember what your first pair of leather shoes looked like in life? Local leather shoe specialty store HOAX officially celebrates its tenth anniversary this year. They have always been dedicated to sharing leather shoe culture. In their tenth year, they continue to bring “collaborative creations” – this year, they have partnered with the Spanish leather shoe brand Berwick 1707 to create two special collaborative leather shoes. One of them is inspired by the American Navy Service Shoes from the 1940s and World War II, improving upon the original Munson Last shoe last developed by the famous American Army doctor Edward Munson. It features a rounded and comfortable shoe last shape, along with details such as a Storm Welt stitched dog tooth sole and flat shoe laces. Additionally, the team has specially released a version for private sale this time, with the words “TENTH” and the shoe model number pressed on the tongue as a commemoration of the tenth anniversary, to be given to units that the HOAX team has always admired.
To celebrate the tenth anniversary, this time ZTYLEZ MAN specially invited the founder Julian and store manager James to sit down and share the inspiration behind TENTH, as well as the memories of the past ten years.
Z: ZTYLEZ MAN; Julian: Julian & James; James
Z: Can you share the story and inspiration behind TENTH?
James: In fact, black leather shoes have always been an essential item for every man, whether for work, dining, or interviews. However, it is often perceived as difficult to match with shirts due to its formal nature. Even a plain toe whole cut black leather shoe can remind people of “school shoes,” as many men’s first encounter with black leather shoes is during their school days. As we celebrate our tenth anniversary, after years of various collaborative projects, designing many beloved shoe styles, we wanted to return to the basics and create the perfect pair of On-and-Off black shoes. And so, TENTH was born.
Z: The tenth anniversary, is it also considered a return to basics?
James: Over the years, many HOAX styles have appeared, which are actually styles that you rarely find on the market. For us, existing styles always have some details that do not quite match our taste, so when we create, we always incorporate some language and elements that suit us. The idea of TENTH is to bring together our understanding and exploration of leather shoes over the past decade, and create a labor of love.
Julian: Probably in recent years, we have rarely started to conceive creations from our own perspective. In the past, creations have always been born based on the preferences of customers, but this time we finally have the opportunity to create what we want. To be honest, this kind of creation is really not easy, especially under our operating model, which can be said to be more challenging. So, this time we hope to create some things that we think are beautiful and share them with everyone.
Z: HOAX has been around for ten years. Did you ever imagine it would last this long?
Julian: No, really no. I believe that all entrepreneurs did not think so far ahead at the beginning, because the entrepreneurial road is always full of challenges, so ten years is really rare, thanks to the efforts of the whole team.
Z: What are the two most deeply felt places in ten years?
Julian: As the founder of HOAX, I believe that we have witnessed Hong Kong going from having nothing to having something. There are also bigger companies than us, not to mention that they are referencing our methods, but some of our ideas have influenced some of their decisions and changes in their sources. We actually see all of this. We hope that in the future, we will have this kind of influence in the industry.
James: It can be considered as building up the atmosphere. From the early days of establishment to now, we have always adhered to the idea and purpose that “leather shoes are also part of daily wear.” In recent years, I am also very happy to see customers starting to change their views on leather shoes or deepen their understanding. I hope that this kind of atmosphere will not only be continued by us, but also hope that more people in Hong Kong can see leather shoes as a key part of daily dressing, rather than being limited to the idea of “work clothes.”
Z: I’m curious, what does the boss think is the most inspiring thing about the HOAX team again?
Julian: To be honest, there is actually a slight age gap between myself and the team (haha). In recent years, I have almost completely retreated behind the scenes, so regardless of James or any frontline colleagues, they have definitely interacted with more people and things than I have. Therefore, most of the ideas that everyone sees now actually come from James and the team, while I am responsible for the final decision-making and execution. In fact, I often pretend that I don’t know anything (James: very willing to listen to our opinions), because no one knows everything; and, when business has developed to this extent, we can’t rely solely on one person’s efforts or one person making all the decisions, right?
James: Indeed, this (social media) is indeed a dilemma. Because image is a very important element for HOAX, but we focus more on the relationship with customers. Therefore, we need to establish the team’s image while also taking care of customers and even breaking down barriers. It is indeed challenging, but we think about it every day. To be honest, this is the boss’s credit. It is precisely because of his persistence in this area over the years that we can maintain the image and the atmosphere of HOAX. He trusts us a lot, and he has also influenced me to vote for my colleagues with confidence and let them try different things. Even if we encounter obstacles, I can see it as part of the process of exploration. Of course, the most important thing is that we all have a common goal.
Z: Over the years, working with different shoe factories, what is actually the most important thing to consider?
Julian: Sales are the main focus. The so-called collaboration or cooperation means that special things are going to be created, so besides taking care of customers, communication with the factory is also crucial. You may see a pair of collaborative shoes as nothing special, but in fact, every detail from the style, design, material, to the type of shoelaces, needs to be requested separately from the factory. The factory often decides whether to accept the request based on the order quantity – sometimes even requiring a minimum order quantity of hundreds of pairs – so ultimately, from my perspective, sales are important.
James: For me, the subject matter is a prerequisite. Every time, the first thing I consider is “does the other party understand what I am doing?” So, every time I propose a collaboration, I will refer to brands, designs, or elements that I appreciate, and then bring convincing creations to everyone. Therefore, we hope that customers will gradually understand that what sets HOAX apart from regular shoe stores is its own language, culture, and understanding. Only with this concept can we go further and earn more respect from others.
Z: So, what do you both think about the cultural atmosphere of HOAX?
Julian: I have always believed that if a brand does not have its own culture, it really has no content or story to tell. Conversations between people often start with “content,” otherwise it will always revolve around topics such as daily life and food. Whether it’s the internet or social platforms, a lot of content is actually repetitive. How much content really includes the author’s personal views, preferences, and discoveries? I have found that there is really less and less of that in recent years.
James: It’s probably because of growing up. I have always loved reading magazines since I was young, and besides clothing accessories, there are also extensive introductions to popular culture such as music and movies. Interestingly, my initial joining of HOAX was actually due to a chance conversation with the boss. The boss felt that he also had some knowledge of music and popular culture (haha), and after joining, I am where I am today. Over the years, I have also learned a lot from the boss, and we often exchange ideas about these cultural matters. We both feel that the general public in Hong Kong is not very interested in these cultural matters, so when time and resources allow, we also hope to allocate some efforts to share or promote more.
Z: I heard that HOAX has recently entered the “journalist ranks,” is that true?
James: Haha, let’s treat it as a new attempt. Yes, for this tenth anniversary, we are going to change roles and have simple interviews with friends from different units. Hopefully, we can take this opportunity to promote these cultures, after all, besides material things, we all consider cultural matters important.
Z: By the way, how did the name HOAX come about?
Julian: When I first founded HOAX, I wanted a name that was “non-traditional, non-mainstream, but profound.” Although it translates to “hoax,” HOAX definitely does not carry any negative connotations. However, some customers still refer to us as “H-O-A-X,” haha!
Z: Has the leather shoe culture in Hong Kong undergone any changes?
Julian: There must be an increase in demand. I don’t know… I’m not on the front line, do people really understand what they need more now? If the shoe culture in a certain place is mature, the customer must have already imagined and set goals for which styles to choose before coming to the store, knowing clearly their preferences and what they want. So in Hong Kong… I don’t know? In terms of observation, I do feel there has been some progress; but if people still randomly pick a pair of shoes, then there really isn’t much culture to speak of.
James: I feel that there has definitely been progress, indeed more customers come to the store already knowing what they need, and our relationships have indeed strengthened (not just customers, even we have gotten to know each other more). But for me, the most obvious change is that customers’ doubts about prices have decreased. I don’t know if it’s due to the general rise in prices, or if customers have increased their understanding and realized the value of these handmade shoes, but currently it seems like there aren’t those same “opinions” as before.
Julian: But I would like to share that, for example, if someone owns thirty pairs of Alden leather shoes, I do not consider this as shoe culture. It can only be said that he enjoys collecting a specific brand. However, true shoe culture should not only be about quantity, price, brand loyalty, but also about appreciating the culture, having a deep and extensive understanding, and recognizing what suits oneself, being willing to try different things. That is what culture is.
James: For example, in Japanese magazines, every time you read them, you will always find many interesting things, but they often make you understand the origin, story, etc. of that thing, that’s probably what culture is like.
Z. What is the one thing you most want to bring back to Hong Kong from working or exchanging in other places?
Julian: Some brands. Even though we have been negotiating with some factories for years, they still do not allow us to introduce our products to Hong Kong for various reasons. It could be that the factory has already distributed their products to other places and does not want sales to be too scattered. It could also be that the factory believes that the shoes may not sell well in Hong Kong, as compared to Japan, the UK, and other larger markets. Perhaps it’s the atmosphere, like the Isetan department store in Japan. If we were to follow that direction, we might only be able to operate in Central Landmark, but we dare not. The atmosphere here in Hong Kong would only scare people away, and ultimately, the distance between us and leather shoes would only grow further.
James: Hong Kong people are just not used to it. In Hong Kong, if you wear a suit or a long dress during your free time or on holidays, someone will still joke with you: “Are you going to a banquet tonight?” This kind of thinking makes the atmosphere a bit conservative. There’s no way, we can only continue to influence everyone with our own way.
Z: Indeed. I have also been teased quite a bit.
Julian: However, to be honest, HOAX is actually a very special shoe store for shoe factories.
James: In the UK, general shoe stores are usually century-old shops or traditional shoe stores; in Japan, they are mainly department stores, while small shops or Select Shops purchase goods from department stores, and very few have direct contact with shoe factories, so specialized shoe stores like ours are really rare.
Julian: It seems that our collaboration items may only be found in fashion stores or select shops, and they will never be mass-produced. Even small shops in the narrow streets of Tokyo sell traditional western suits and even higher-end goods.
Z: Has this year, with the pandemic, been the most difficult year since HOAX was founded?
Julian: In terms of recent developments, it is indeed the most difficult year. If it weren’t for the epidemic, we should be at the exhibition in Italy now, busy with procurement work, but… If we don’t focus on the high-end market, basically small and medium-sized shoe factories have been forced to close due to the impact on the supply chain.
James: Actually, it’s not just us, the whole industry has come to a standstill. The boss just received a text message from his Italian factory friend, the exhibition there is proceeding as usual, but the entire venue is deserted, truly like a ghost town. Having been in this industry for ten years, I never imagined seeing such a tragic scene.
Z: After the epidemic, what changes do you most want to bring to HOAX?
Julian: Thoroughly replace the existing shoe collection. As I said, the epidemic has caused a major halt in the industry, and basically we didn’t bring any new styles in 2020. Of course, the shoe factory was also powerless. So, I hope the epidemic will end soon, and HOAX can continue to create more.
James: After experiencing this year, I realized that some things can suddenly disappear, such as Kobe suddenly leaving us, making me understand that the idea of being able to continue living is very humble. So, I hope that our efforts will still be appreciated by others, and that the team can continue to do what they love, bringing more to friends who have always supported and appreciated us. Everyone stay healthy and continue doing what you love, this is the vision for the 11th year.
Z: Finally, can you share your feelings about the 10th anniversary of founding HOAX?
Julian: “Everyone has shoes to wear” right (haha)? In that era, buying leather shoes or boots was not easy, the leather shoes on the market were all expensive, and there were very few styles to choose from; in fact, the initial idea of establishing HOAX was inspired by the “fashion” aspect rather than the direction of “work clothes”. Fortunately, today, ten years later, this mission has finally been accomplished, and I am really happy. At least I can become a brand point in the market, let everyone know, and think about whether “what is in my heart is suitable for myself?”
James: I have been working with the boss for many years, and he has really given me a lot of space to play around with some ideas. I am grateful for the recognition from friends over the past decade, and I am indeed very happy. I hope HOAX will continue to thrive, and along the way, more people can understand and appreciate this business model and its principles. Let’s continue to promote this culture and atmosphere, making life in Hong Kong a bit more interesting, rather than just focusing on making money and raising children. Dressing is not something very elusive, but rather a very basic category. However, Hong Kong people tend to put it at the bottom of their priorities. Therefore, I hope the emergence of HOAX can continue to help everyone forget some of the pain in life, and enjoy the most basic happiness, even if it’s just temporary.
Special Thanks: Julian@HOAX, James@HOAX, TED@HOAX
