Being the masterpiece of Audemars Piguet (referred to as AP), the Royal Oak Offshore (ROO) chronograph has undergone significant changes since its debut in 1993, and as recently as March of this year, AP introduced an updated version of this iconic series. Today, six months later, AP has once again released another revised version of the ROO, but this time, it is a rare piece based on the original 42mm size.
Since its debut, the ROO, known as “The Beast,” has been upgraded by AP this year based on the original design from 1993. The series introduces three new styles, each featuring a case made of stainless steel, titanium, or 18K rose gold. The most significant change is undoubtedly the 42mm case size. The latest version, model 26238T, retains the complex functions of the ROO, including a chronograph, flyback function, hours, minutes, small seconds, and date display. It is equipped with AP’s latest 4404 self-winding flyback chronograph movement, which allows the timing to be restarted without first pressing the stop or reset button. The column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism work together to ensure that the chronograph hands respond immediately and smoothly when the chronograph is started or stopped. In addition, the operation of the chronograph buttons is very flexible, and the patented reset mechanism ensures that each timer hand returns to zero instantly, fully demonstrating AP’s position as a high-end watchmaker.
In terms of design, the newly remade ROO is made of the above three materials to create the case, strap, and the iconic octagonal bezel of the Royal Oak, each hand-finished with a matte finish and polished beveled edges; as for the dial, it features the original “Petite Tapisserie” small grid pattern from 1993, with AP having previously released a titanium reissue in 2004 (model 25721TI), but the 18K rose gold version is unprecedented.
It is worth noting that the stainless steel version of the watch features the classic blue color known as “Night Blue 50” in AP’s historical documents, which was originally used in the 1993 original ROO. The rose gold model, on the other hand, pairs the same blue dial with rose gold sub-dials. As for the titanium version, it is adorned with a light gray dial, black sub-dials, and a black inner bezel to create a sense of color layering. In terms of details, both the stainless steel and rose gold models come with blue rubber chronograph buttons and crowns, while the waterproof rubber seal connecting the bezel and case is also in blue. The titanium model, on the other hand, features black accents.
Fans of the ROO series with a deep understanding of its history will notice that the sub-dials on the dial have been rearranged, with the hour counter now at 12 o’clock and the small seconds hand at 6 o’clock, while the minute counter remains unchanged at 9 o’clock. In addition, the new dial retains two small features from the original model in 1993: the raised metal “AP” logo and the printed full name logo are both located at 3 o’clock, and there is a magnifying glass built into the date display window, greatly enhancing its original charm.
In addition, the designer of 26238T has reactivated the sapphire crystal glass case back, allowing wearers to admire the “dance moves” of the 4404 movement when resetting, along with the entire movement made up of a 22K rose gold automatic disc. The delicate decorations on the face, such as Geneva waves, matte polishing, and polished beveled edges, can all be seen in the case back. Additionally, 26238T also comes with a new quick-release rubber strap, with the stainless steel and rose gold models paired with blue, while the titanium model is paired with black.
As the 1990s approached, then-President Stephen Urquhart hoped to extend Gerald Genta’s watchmaking aesthetics to a younger generation, even abandoning the launch at Audemars Piguet’s 20th anniversary in pursuit of perfection, aiming to bring the perfect side of the Royal Oak Offshore to the watch industry and market. What ROO carries to this day is the best evidence of the Audemar Piguet brand spirit. From the drastic transformation in 2013, the revival of the original appearance of the Royal Oak Offshore in 2018, to today’s efforts to push the craftsmanship of ROO to the extreme, I believe that for many watch fans and AP collectors, this launch is a significant and sincere one.
Finally, let me give you a sneak peek. This time, AP is also launching a 43mm version. If you want to know more about the other side, stay tuned for ZTYLEZ’s detailed report later.
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of Audemars Piguet
