「对我来说,珠宝设计是非常个人的事情 – 我设计我喜欢戴的东西。它必须舒适、多用途、简洁,但也必须能够诠释一个故事。我喜欢色彩,也不怕在自己的衣橱中尝试不同的色彩,我的珠宝正反映了这一点。」Annoushka
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This name may not be familiar to many people, but Annoushka has gained the favor of the Duchess of Cambridge, the famous model Gigi Hadid, and even the music queen Rihanna. In photos, we always see them wearing Annoushka’s jewelry. It is so understated yet loved by everyone, there must be various reasons behind it.
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独特且带有异国情调,这就是Annoushka给人的感觉。品牌创办人兼设计师Annoushka Ducas,出生于莫斯科,长于伦敦,后来在巴黎的索邦大学学习法国语言和文明,然后在80年代末移居香港,并开始与本地工匠合作,为自己、亲友和家人设计珠宝。Annoushka曾获得英国女皇授予的大英帝国勋章,她也曾创立另一个饰品品牌Links of London,并在2006年出售给希腊时尚集团Folli Follie。三十年后,她依然保持着对珠宝设计的热情与探索精神,并将丰富的旅行经验中获取灵感融入到品牌当中。
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「我试图消除购买和佩戴高级珠宝时所产生的崇敬感。我希望我的作品适合每天佩戴;让女士们佩戴着华丽的大型镶嵌戒指参加派对,同时也能在日常打扮中搭配牛仔裤。」
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所以,每一件加入Annoushka系列的新作品都在诠释着不同的性格与故事。这种对个人风格的强调贯穿于她的所有作品中,从她叠戴戒指和精致形象化吊饰的全球成功,到Annoushka的「珍藏珠宝盒」:一套充分反映了品味和性格,且极具个性的珠宝套装。对她来说,饰品代表一段关系、某个难忘时刻、甚至是自己才知道的意义,自己喜欢的饰品更像是一个闺蜜好友,可以永远陪在身边守护。
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也许也因为如此,让Annoushka多了分人性化的生动感。设计从贵气典雅到玩味随性都有,和一般顶级珠宝会大量运用白钻不同,Annoushka任何材质,也有不少系列强调可以自己组合,而几乎每一个charm,都有其独特机关,相机可以打开盖子,熊熊手脚可郁动,还有览车可以打开门等,都让你惊叹手工可以如此细致。最近,ZTYLEZ有幸与Annoushka Duncas来个对谈,诉说她与珠宝设计的二三事。
Z:你能和我们分享一些你在设计生涯中特别的合作经验吗?这些经历对你的工作和理念有什么影响?
A: 我曾经跟一个时装品牌合作,叫Vampire’s Wife,由Susie Cave和Nick Cave这对夫妇组成,这其实也是一支乐队,我制作了一系列的charms,它们全部来自他们的歌曲!为何会这样难忘,因为这其实也是我首个与其他单位合作的珠宝系列。其中一个具挑战性之处是,你需要去尊重相方的意见,举例我熟悉珠宝设计,Susie亦有她所期望的珠宝外貌,但她有可能不明白珠宝制作过程,这是一个非常尊重相方的关系,你从中会学到好多,而我亦可以将作品带到另一组的观众面前。
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Z: 你如何描述你对美学的追求和品牌的视觉理念?
A: 我钟情的美学在每一个时段都会不同,在一些系列可以好简约好polish,但在另一个系列又可以好多textures和detailed,有时好甜美和缤纷的,不同时候都有着不同的变化,depends on当时我的灵感来自什么。当然,我也有钟情的东西,例如好玩的,和多变化的,例如这个胸针可以变成项链,戒指可以叠穿的,这种playful和多重用途的变化对于我来说都十分重要,当我要戴一件饰物时,它必定是要实用的。当我设计珠宝是,我必定会考虑我怎样去配戴它。
Z:什么给予你最多灵感?
A:自然!这对我来说总是一件大事。旅游,我非常喜欢周游列国,在我所处的任何城市都能给我灵感。我的创作也源自对新事物的好奇,对新想法有着不竭的热情。我也深信珠宝是无界限的,我不会特别去制作on trend的东西,因为饰物本身就应该要跨越潮流。当你拥有令人惊叹的珠宝时,简单的服装就能完美地展现你的造型。
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Z:你能和我们分享一个与你建立了深厚关系的顾客的故事吗?
A:There are so many! Let me think… Oh, Rihanna, her husband ASAP Rocky, came to my store and personally selected each meaningful charm to give to Rihanna when she was pregnant at the time. They are all very meaningful and have a story behind them, like a mermaid, a mushroom, and a blue bird. The most interesting part is that you inadvertently become invested in someone else’s story and find how meaningful their story is! Just like how we wear jewelry, carrying it and passing it down to the next generation; fundamentally, it has a powerful energy. I believe that jewelry can communicate with the wearer, and I am honored that my designs can be a part of their life story.
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Z:设计珠宝时,最喜欢哪些原材料?
A:Perhaps everyone likes shiny things. Uncommon black diamonds, pink diamonds, yellow diamonds, and the “Dusty Diamond” series are all our favorites. The brilliance may not be as high as regular diamonds, but the more you look at them, the more they have depth and flavor. There’s no need to show off, those who appreciate them naturally understand. When designing, I didn’t have any grand concepts in mind. I let my creativity run wild in a casual way, without too many constraints. I hope that women who wear them can feel this sense of freedom.