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3月 6, 2023

巴黎时装周:Loewe 2023 秋冬大玩「糊视」视觉,还原于基本

最近几季的Loewe,创意总监Jonathan Anderson都以超现实主义和夸张廓形,带来冲击大家视觉的设计,来到2023秋冬系列,决定大唱内向反调,延续早前秋冬男装系列”还原基本,化繁为简”的概念,着眼于服装轮廓、物料质感以及物料在光线下的视觉效果。

本季选址于巴黎郊外的Château de Vincennes,骚场内放置由意大利艺术家Lara Favaretto用上近10吨彩色纸碎制作的21个立方体,当模特儿穿梭其中时,立方体慢慢地磨损并剥落一地,令表演场地也变成一幅流动风景。

意大利藝術家 Lara Favaretto 用上近 10 噸彩色紙碎製創作的 21 個立方體

延伸阅读:

在前一季,Jonathan Anderson利用像素图案营造出失真效果,这次也利用模糊曖昧的手法,强调时装本质并非眼前当下这一刻而是其后。首先登场的三套造型,白色缎面连身裙,印上模糊、褪色的复古裙装图案,如果从手机屏幕上看,可能会让你不禁怀疑是否网络不好,又或眼睛看错?但不用怀疑,因为系列中还有多款连身裙、干湿褂及仿皮草大衣,都变成一抹印象,像魅影记忆般褪却或重现再定形,借此令大家将眼前尚未清晰的事物好好聚焦研究。

Loewe 2023
Loewe 2023

This season’s another focus is the combination of pink and green outfits, as well as the simple and plain form of the light blue top, which has a touch of cartoon and dramatic effect. Upon closer inspection, it is made of leather, which creates a surprising contrast. Additionally, the feather-made outfits also impress. The entire collection expresses proportions through fluidity, vertical lines, draping, and curves. There are also sudden compressions and variations. The main tones are black, brown, camel, white, and red, occasionally infused with a hint of pastel colors. Between clarity and blur, everything returns to the basics.

Loewe 2023
Loewe 2023
Loewe 2023


在手袋方面,全新推出的Squeeze Bag采用高级光滑皮革制作,配有柔软的手提带和甜甜圈链条装饰。此外还有大号Puzzle手提袋、Paseo手袋和皮革编织篮袋;鞋履方面有圆头皮靴,高跟鞋上点缀着大蝴蝶结或阴影细节。

Loewe 2023
Loewe 2023


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