In recent seasons, Loewe’s creative director Jonathan Anderson has brought designs that are surreal and exaggerated, creating a visual impact. In the 2023 autumn/winter collection, he decided to sing a different tune, continuing the concept of “simplifying the complex” from the previous autumn/winter menswear collection. The focus is on clothing silhouettes, material textures, and the visual effects of materials under light.
This season, the show is set in Château de Vincennes on the outskirts of Paris. Inside the venue, there are 21 cubes created by Italian artist Lara Favaretto using nearly 10 tons of colored shredded paper. As the models move through them, the cubes slowly wear away and fall to the ground, turning the performance space into a flowing landscape.
Further reading:
- Paris Fashion Week: Dior 2023 Autumn/Winter Remodels 1950s Style, Embracing Independent Female Charm
- 巴黎時裝周：Saint Laurent 2023 冬季模糊性別，瀟灑優雅的女性魅力
- Gigi Hadid 宣傳 Netflix 《Next In Fashion》，連環變換造型盡顯時尚魅力！
In the previous season, Jonathan Anderson used pixel patterns to create a distorted effect. This time, he also used a blurry and ambiguous technique to emphasize that the essence of fashion is not the present moment, but what comes after. The first three outfits that appeared were white satin dresses with blurry and faded vintage dress patterns. If you look at them on a phone screen, you might start to doubt if the internet connection is bad or if your eyes are playing tricks on you. But there’s no need to doubt because the collection also includes a variety of other dresses, raincoats, and faux fur coats, all becoming a faint impression, fading away or reappearing in a new form, allowing everyone to focus and study things that are not yet clear in front of their eyes.
Another focus of this season is the combination of pink and green, as well as the simple and practical form of the light blue top, which has a touch of cartoon and dramatic effect. Upon closer inspection, it is made of leather, which creates a surprising contrast. Additionally, the feather-made styles are equally stunning. The entire collection is expressed through fluidity, vertical lines, draping, and curves, with occasional variations of compression. The main tones are black, brown, camel, white, and red, with a hint of pastel colors. Between clarity and blur, everything returns to the basics.
As for handbags, the newly debuted Squeeze Bag is made of high-quality smooth leather, with a soft handle and donut chain decoration. In addition, there are large Puzzle handbags, Paseo handbags, and leather woven basket bags. For footwear, there are round-toe leather boots, high heels adorned with large bows or shadow details.
