Since Maria Grazia Chiuri took over as the creative director of Dior womenswear, she has collaborated with female artists every season. This season, she invited artist Mariella Bettineschi to participate in the show’s design, creating an installation art piece called “The Next Era.”
The scene is like an art gallery, with walls covered in large female portrait paintings spanning the 16th to 19th centuries, all processed by Mariella Bettineschi, giving them a second pair of eyes, seemingly questioning female constraints.
For the Fall/Winter 2022 season, Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with the Italian startup D-Air Lab to provide innovative technology for garment structures, such as adjustable body moisture and a system function that warms the body when necessary.
The first piece to take the stage is a jumpsuit that is the result of collaboration between the two parties, inspired by the intricate intertwining of human veins and arteries. It uses temperature-regulating technology that adjusts temperature according to environmental climate, hinting that future clothing may be better suited to adapt to the unpredictable natural environment.
In addition, Maria Grazia Chiuri also incorporates the men’s Grisaille gray fabric into dresses, showcasing various cuts from different visual angles, such as intricately pleated skirts; and in the use of materials, the classic Bar Jacket and tweed long skirt are paired with a life jacket-like vest, futuristic warrior gloves, and armor-like shoulder pads, creating a strong contrast, interpreting the past, present, and future in a new visual way, showcasing the diverse faces of women.
Although this season sees many neutral elements combined with technology, the signature details of Dior, such as jacquard, embroidery, and chiffon, are still visible. It seems to bring out the message of female delicacy and romantic emotions beneath the strong appearance of feminism.
