Dior Men’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, artistic director Kim Jones debuts haute couture menswear for the first time, intertwining with ready-to-wear, exploring the concept of living two different lives through the public and private life of dancer Nureyev. Drawing inspiration from Dior’s classic designs, Saint Laurent’s tailoring techniques once again merge into the world of menswear, especially with his emphasis on layering, slits, pleats, and collars. The Bar jacket designed by Mr. Dior transforms into a refreshing men’s suit, combining Jones’ first collection design of the Oblique suit, featuring the distinctive elongated double-breasted wrap design of the suit, blending with the graceful waistline of the Bar jacket.
The characteristics of the 1960s and 1970s are also reflected in the simple design of single-breasted jackets, showcasing Nureyev’s personal style and dance style. Through zippered wool jumpsuits and shorts, form-fitting ribbed knit sweaters, and thick wool coats with rich leather details, his attitude is displayed. In contrast, high fashion collections can better reflect Nureyev’s glamorous side on stage, depicting his arrogance and elegance, as well as reflecting his private passion for collecting antique textiles.
Accessories simultaneously echo the simplicity, discipline, and luxury of two worlds, or even merge them into one. The structured leather of San Crispino contrasts with the men’s mixed silk and polyester Mary-Jane sneakers, echoing both ballet shoes and drawing inspiration from the tradition of men’s evening wear. Practical bags with soft structures highlight the brand’s characteristics, such as the grained camera bag and waist bag adorned with the Macrocannage large rattan pattern. The velvet hat is a reference to the silk dancer’s headscarf designed by Stephen Jones for Dior women’s wear in 1990, now transformed into a silk version for men’s wear.
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