Givenchy’s brand new Fall/Winter 2022 show, this is Matthew M. Williams’ fourth physical presentation since taking office at Givenchy, and the second fashion show shared with attendees. Once again, he interprets his creative world with light and shadow, detachment and reality, as well as the tension between high-end and practical functionality. This season, it is a modern romantic date.
The new season is presented in the far west suburbs of Paris, with the venue set up with stage scaffolding, a fully transparent platform, and a sports arena-style seating arrangement. In the pitch-black surroundings, illuminated by four giant LED light boxes, it creates a surreal sense of space – reminiscent of last October’s Spring 2022 collection presentation. However, everyone in this bewildering environment witnesses a series of clothes that reflect the real world.
Although this season belongs to the women’s fashion week schedule, what can be seen in the collection is a design that is unfamiliar, streetwear and functional wear-oriented, paying tribute to Hubert de Givenchy and the brand’s workshop. Models walk on the crisscrossing stage, gradually captivating the audience. In terms of design, the collection continues to use the color palette of black, brown, dark gray, beige, etc. that have been commonly used in past seasons, with black continuing to be the dominant color. In the men’s collection, there are layered tops adorned with Metallica typography, loose leather tracksuits, extra-long suit coats, etc.; in addition, outerwear once again becomes the focus of Matthew Williams’ work, where he applies the sensory perception of color in a non-conventional way to flowing, tailored silhouettes, transparency, and hand embroidery. Similar to the technique used in washed sportswear, a new, complex, layered approach is applied here – a pattern created using experimental techniques and embroidery made with 4D printing.
Here, Givenchy’s classicism and radicalism come together, presenting layers of volume and texture on the clothes. This attitude contrasts sharply with classic tailoring, exploring structured single and double-breasted styles, yet remaining light in wool and corduroy. The oversized trousers and loose coats create a stark contrast. The weight of denim, worn, tested, and treated, matches the duchess satin in this collection. Everything is unified by silhouettes, whether long and oversized, or short and tight, yet still with intricate ruffles, hand-pleated folds, and layered wrinkles, each emphasizing movement, ease, and the practicality of the wearer.
In the women’s collection, a neat and tailored feminine charm takes the lead. The tight silhouette is presented in both formal and casual wear; the dress with ruffled hem breaks away from the color palette of past seasons, opting for a dazzling purple hue with mesh design, blending traditional evening wear with sporty clothing to elevate everyday style. It is worth mentioning that even though weathered denim fabric was used, the design is adorned with sequins and pearls, paying homage to the practical decorative sense advocated by the brand’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy. This pure and bold idea is not accidental, but rather Matthew Williams reinterpreting and applying variations through his own ideas after extensively studying the brand’s archives.
In the founder Hubert de Givenchy’s archive of haute couture, Matthew Williams extensively applied it to the series, from metal accessories to jewelry, pearls to rivets, and then reimagined the 1955 leopard print in the series, after many dyeing processes and applied to men’s outerwear in the series. The thistle pattern, which used to be designed as a brooch pin, has become black thistle embroidery, not only appearing in print designs but also transplanted to jewelry and shoes; surprisingly, this is actually meticulously handcrafted with goose feathers.
As for the must-see accessories every season, there are the New Hobo, Kenny, and 4G handbags, while in terms of footwear, the brand new over-the-knee Givenchy Stretch Boots and the TK 360 sneakers developed by MMW after nearly a year of research using a revolutionary new weaving technique have also become highlights, with MMW himself wearing them for a long time.
In simple terms, the FW22 series can be said to directly reflect the evolution of the modern fashion system.
After this season’s presentation, you might expect to see the lady who greatly admires Audrey Hepburn standing outside Avenue George V, waiting for the man in high-end functional clothing and TK 360 sneakers to appear, just as MMW said: “Standing next to her is a modern man, a man instinctively pursuing indifference in fashion. And at the fashion show, both are boldly presented with a sense of reality as the foundation.”
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of GIVENCHY
