Hermes has released its new menswear 2022 winter collection. If last season was creative director Véronique Nichanian’s preparation after experiencing the pandemic, then this season’s Hermès menswear is her liberated idea.
Arriving at the 2022 winter series, Véronique Nichanian once again collaborated with theater director Cyril Teste to present 43 looks at the dignified Réserve Perret exhibition hall of the French National Furniture Management Institute. The collection showcases a fascinating contrast of materials and elements colliding with each other, while the hanging felt artifacts on the walls gradually transform in front of the viewers, emitting a gorgeous and vibrant energy without mercy. Despite not using the experimental filming techniques of the past Fall 2021 and Spring 2021 seasons, the models once again walk the runway in the most traditional way, expressing the purest and most captivating emotions that are deeply rooted in Hermès’ heritage.
Véronique Nichanian shared during an interview: “This is a stylish effect for gentlemen; a way of dressing, mixing, feeling good, and being attractive.” In this collection, Véronique Nichanian advocates for a light, joyful feeling, accurately creating the effect described by the designer through various soft and elegant mix-and-match double-sided designs, infusing joy and happiness into every moment. Light penetrates the fabrics, melting into a chaotic and hazy blur. Starting with materials such as cashmere, silk, shiny Porosus crocodile leather, silk snow neil gauze, wool flannel, and English ribbed corduroy, combined with different technical fabrics and herringbone patterns, intertwining into a gentleman’s style.
However, the so-called contrast and mix-and-match are not a chaotic combination. You will see different ideas, such as the loose pants shape of Look 39 and the dynamic combination presented in response to the material, making the leather outfit from head to toe a very attractive style. The printed silk shirt with an additional piece of fabric on the collar even adds a touch of gentlemanly elegance to the originally relaxed style. That kind of casual attitude is always so charming.
In addition, the series also includes countless different crafts. For example, a long coat with a detachable Tuscan lambskin lining and a hood made of shiny technical canvas, an orange belted jacket, a striking needle-leaf green half-zip cagoule, a mirrored Porosus crocodile skin ribbed zip-up top, a Minimal Compact silk printed pattern and embossed matte lambskin top, a wool gabardine double-breasted coat and short jacket, a hooded Toiloxydée canvas jacket, a striped sporty cardigan with an open front, and a round-neck pullover sweater.
Of course, the most anticipated accessory in the collection is the bag. The series features designs such as the Sac à dépêches Messenger Box, the Togo calf leather messenger bag, and the Tadelakt calf leather phone case. One standout piece is the calf leather bag named Haut à courroies Rock Evercalf. This Rock calf leather bag is very similar to Hermès’ Butch Birkin, with added functionality from a sturdy key chain attached to a vertical elongation and a pop-up flap extending from the top front edge of the bag to the side. Additionally, there is a semi-oval pocket on the side adorned with a shiny diagonal zipper. Unexpectedly, you can also find waterproof technology silk fisherman hats, a 65 cm Éperon d’or et de couleurs silk fringe scarf, chain horseshoe pendant, and patent calf leather ankle boots.
At the fashion show, Véronique Nichanian and Cyril Teste used the tapestry collection of the French National Furniture Management Institute to transform the one-way fashion show catwalk into a richly textured scene. Among the 43 looks, vibrant colors appeared, including bronze, charcoal, velvet, pine green, frost blue, black, bright orange, as well as common tones in each season of Hermès such as carbon black, brown, and pollen yellow. The old tapestries followed the rhythm of the models as they walked, gradually transforming before the viewers’ eyes. Even though they remained static as a backdrop, they allowed the showcased collection to exude its inner energy, highlighting the personalities of the models and garments. The original patterns transformed into plant forms, slowly revealing a luster formed by historical sediment, enhancing each piece of the showcased collection. At the same time, as explained in the fashion show notes: the vibrant colors draw on the energy of the moment, expressing the fleeting nature of time.
During each fashion week, you may anticipate the splendid setups of various presentations, or the heavyweight guests at the event; here, information indeed requires time to digest, and events happen quite directly, but the series not only exudes a longing for contradictions and delicacy, but also allows you to see the combination of craftsmanship and imagination. Yes, fashion shows cannot forget this feeling.
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of Hermès
