In the fashion industry, which places a strong emphasis on ideas and expressions, the appearance of two designers for a single brand sparks endless discussions. Last night, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons made it clear that their collaboration is more beneficial than stagnant. Most importantly, the process has been enjoyable and pleasant for both of them over the past six months. As we enter the Fall Winter 2021 season, they have chosen not to discuss any particular story, but to truly express current life and environment through their clothing.
Regarding the collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, besides clothing design and conceptual ideas, what actually arouses the most curiosity is the various arrangements of the entire presentation. From the invitation received from Prada on that day, it can be inferred that knits, faux fur clothing, or similar items will be the main focus of this season; after the opening last night, it was evident that the venue Non-Spaces was composed of rooms made of different materials such as marble, composite resin, plaster, artificial fur, etc. Models moved through different rooms, with strong color contrasts, creating a dreamy and quite detached feeling in the visuals; in terms of music, it should be Raf Simons’ strength, and indeed the person in charge this season.
It does reflect the “Raf Simons style”: curated by Techno pioneer and renowned label Plus 8 founder Richie Hawtin – personally, I particularly like the last 7 minutes to the end, delicate yet unpredictable.
As revealed by the invitation, FW21 features a large number of knitted materials, including geometric knits, bouclé fabrics, wool, etc. However, the final presentation is not on typical sweaters or coats, but rather on sets resembling children’s jumpsuits. What’s most interesting is that it can be both the innermost and outermost layer of an outfit, creating a second skin as Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada pointed out, allowing the body’s silhouette to be displayed freely (when at the bottom layer: concealing the shape; at the top layer: freely displaying its appearance and form). This interpretation, for the two designers, is a contrasting abstract idea about “freedom,” balancing protection and exposure, innocence and intellect, intimacy and distance, youth and adulthood, reflecting how life changes over time.
In terms of style, the collection includes straight-striped suits with rolled-up sleeves, oversized jacquard coats, Raf-Simons’ iconic oversized Bomber, double-breasted leather coats, etc. The neck and back feature oversized brand logo tags, leather gloves with small handbags, and different woven textures as embellishments; paired with eye-catching colors, not only does it make the sharp design stand out, but it also creates a strong echoing effect between the entire collection and the background.
As in the previous season, this season Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada set up a visual dialogue session after the show, inviting students from different parts of the world for interviews. In the 30-minute dialogue, the first question was the most direct, but it also explained the central idea of this season. The question asked how the two of them resolved disagreements when working together. Raf Simons was unexpectedly drawn to this question, while Miuccia Prada mentioned that whether it was the previous women’s collection or this FW21 collection, there weren’t actually many instances of disagreement. She said that whenever Raf Simons presented a different opinion, she saw it as a driving force for changing her own ideas, and she agreed that in the creative process, one must have a mindset that constantly shifts perspectives. Raf Simons praised the question, sharing, “Actually, from day one, we’ve been discussing ideas and concepts almost every moment, the discussion never stops. Whenever there’s a disagreement in ideas, we often just move past it because future discussions will surely hold more possibilities and more harmony, so continuous communication is key.”
This season, using different fabrics to create clothing and spaces is actually about the experience of touch. Indeed, when the entire presentation is surrounded by multiple different textures and materials, viewers will slowly develop an intention to touch. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aim to emphasize this sensory experience. In the past year of difficulties, physical touch between people has become more precious, and the body has never been so sensitive to the surrounding environment. Through this sensory seduction, the two reflect the current desire in life for human connection through skin-to-skin contact and the collision of “free will,” seeking intimate connections.
