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August 12, 2020

【ZTYLEZ Interview】Combining precision craftsmanship with 3D printing, Austria’s emerging craft brand PUBLISHED BY Interview

Under the impact of the epidemic, the fashion industry has been forced to accelerate its pace and keep up with the digitalization trend. However, it seems premature to determine success or failure at this point. Since the fashion industry has officially opened the door to “digital fashion,” it is better to start by understanding more about some brands that have long been committed to integrating digital technology.

Founded by designer Christoph Tsentinis, the emerging craft brand PUBLISHED BY from Austria combines precision craftsmanship with 3D printing technology, reexamining traditional production methods and drawing inspiration from high-end automotive technology in pursuit of breaking through traditional craftsmanship. At the same time, it is committed to achieving a balance between reducing waste and expanding creative boundaries through innovative concepts, which is also one of PUBLISHED BY’s principles. Therefore, ZTYLEZ MAN invited PUBLISHED BY’s founder Christoph Tsetinis to share the story of establishing the brand and the inspiration behind the creations.

1. What is the story behind the establishment of PUBLISHED BY? Does the brand name have a special meaning?

PUBLISHED BY is a technology-inspired accessory brand. Our team is made up of artists, creators, and developers driven by technology, all with the same goal of bringing fashion into the future. As for the brand name, it actually came to me suddenly one late night. PUBLISHED BY symbolizes us as the “publishers” of our own handbags, but with an entire team giving it life. We are a very collaborative team.

2. When did you first come into contact with and learn about 3D printing?

When I first encountered 3D printing, I was about 14 years old. My fascination began when I saw the technology in action at a large automotive company where my dad worked. However, after that initial exposure, I hadn’t come across or thought about 3D printing until I met some friends majoring in architecture in college. They were tech experts who frequently used these technologies to create different models and designs. Seeing their creations was like opening a new door for me, pulling me into a completely different universe.

As a designer with a carpentry background, what are the challenging aspects of learning and applying such innovative techniques in your creations?

Actually, my design process is still very similar to my experience as a carpenter. You have tools, and every time you learn a new skill or acquire new tools, there are always more possibilities for you to discover more of your creativity.

For example, it is very difficult to build a ship with just a hammer. When you absorb knowledge from new systems or skills, it will expand your creativity and broaden your horizons. Without knowing these computer programs and 3D printing, I believe I would never have been able to create the first stone bag. Technology can definitely help you learn a new design language and apply it in your future creations.

4. What knowledge or perspectives did you absorb the most while working at Alexander McQueen? Were there any interesting things that inspired your creativity?

I interned there, and even had the opportunity to stay until the end of the entire internship. I really love it there, especially being able to witness the amazing creative process from the inside out. Interning at Alexander McQueen’s studio was definitely a key factor in my deep love and dedication to details – the studio truly showed how to push an idea to the extreme, to perfection.

However, what inspired me the most was a group of craftsmen. Everyone in the workshop is an expert in their respective area or process. I have made many good friends here, who have shown me how to create a product – even a story – and have demonstrated that working at Alexander McQueen must be conceived as an orchestra, where even the smallest parts are crucial, and you must constantly strive for perfection.

5. PUBLISHED BY Have you ever collaborated with a car company, is the engineering part attractive to you? Are you a car enthusiast yourself?

Whether it’s creating a bag or an accessory, it’s actually far more complex than meets the eye. Imagine if you had to create a car, a car that can safely transport passengers from point A to point B every day, while also taking into account the exterior design, how difficult would that be? So what I have pursued in the past and will continue to pursue is the highest level of technology and perfectionism.

Yes, I am very fond of antique cars, especially the car designs from the 60s and 70s, which often bring me a lot of inspiration. Among them, my favorite models include the iconic rally car Stratos from the classic car team Lancia and the futuristic concept car Modulo created by the legendary car manufacturer Ferrari in the 70s.

6. Which item from this season’s AW20 collection left the deepest impression?

The Cross Body Bag and Ruby’s Lost Stone Bag are two of my favorite designs in the collection, they are both very personal and classic designs to me. Ruby’s Lost Stone Bag, specially created for my partner, Ruby Wallen, the Executive Director of PUBLISHED BY, while The Cross Body Bag was created for my brother. These stories are the source of my creation, each piece is made for someone I admire, I hope that every friend or family member I respect can find their own style in the collection.

7. Can you share the reasons for choosing local avant-garde brand select shop INK-Clothing as the only store in Hong Kong to represent PUBLISHED BY?

Yes, as you said, INK-Clothing is one of my personal favorite stores, and I appreciate their team’s product selection and choice of different brands. I feel very honored to be recommended by INK-Clothing and to receive the trust and recognition of the team. Furthermore, Hong Kong has always been a city we love, and the entire PUBLISHED BY team is proud to have found a sales point in Hong Kong for its international cultural atmosphere and creative inspiration. It is worth mentioning that for the AW20 pre-order, we brought in an animator to shoot a short film based on Ruby’s Lost Stone Bag theme inside a nightclub in Hong Kong.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CCsNj_egEyM/

Big brands may have more history for fashion enthusiasts, but when it comes to creative content, creative ideas, and even the stories behind them, niche or independent brands are not necessarily inferior to well-known brands. Fashion should not only be led by the concepts of “newest” and “fastest”.

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