Viewing music as a perspective and angle to explore fashion, it can be considered a major key that runs through the designs of the late fashion designer Virgil Abloh. From clothing design, the music arrangements at fashion shows, to the creative atmosphere inside his Rue de Pont Neuf studio, every detail is infused with the subtle chemical reaction between music and Virgil Abloh. With the arrival of the Spring 2023 menswear collection, Louis Vuitton once again attempts to highlight Virgil Abloh’s technique of combining sound and image in this series, exploring the theme of growth emphasized in his designs through the mindset of young music enthusiasts.
It is worth mentioning that, before Virgil Abloh passed away on November 28, 2021, the theme of the early spring collection had already been conceived and brought to life by the Louis Vuitton creative team and partners who had always worked with him.
The series was shot at the Paris National Dance Center, using the metaphorical image of a music school to frame Virgil Abloh’s core fashion philosophy around childhood themes: a place where a new generation studies, re-samples, and innovates music to form tradition. Just like a young person’s wardrobe evolves, his musical journey is an untried dialogue between past, present, and future codes, inspired by the enticing atmosphere of fan culture at the core of the youth mindset. The series is divided into two chapters, depicting a wardrobe established during the experimental phase of a young musician’s life, and the moment he steps into the adult world to showcase his voice.
The first chapter of this series, themed “The Concert Goer,” expresses the premise of youth forming oversized silhouettes, evoking immature clothing lines. In terms of storytelling, this chapter is inspired by their rough concept of young people-centered thrift stores, where suits are pieced together from work pants or distressed denim, and leather jackets are filled with the sheen of faded time. Camouflage-like curved letter patterns decorate generations of shirt and skirt workwear sets, boyish shorts sets, and shirts, as well as clothing established in military and sportswear closets, such as fil-coupé pilot jackets and transparent effect windbreakers.
Another chapter is “The Music Student.” Creating a mature silhouette characterized by traditional suits, injecting vitality through familiar layered clothing from the sportswear wardrobe. Tailored suits paired with football scarves, Damier pattern casual suits paired with letter combination leather down jackets, gray-brown work suits paired with hoodies. Similarly, a double-breasted tailored suit appears under a wool and high-tech jacquard down jacket, with enlarged houndstooth print fragments, also reflected in the workwear suit with belted pockets. Becoming a recurring theme in Virgil Abloh’s work for Louis Vuitton, the new interpretation of Hybridtooth symbolizes freedom, with the birdstooch pattern appearing on gray skirt suits and sportswear.
In addition, in terms of footwear, the LV Skate sneakers introduced at the 2022 autumn/winter show are characterized by their oversized proportions, thick laces, toy-like logo, and new color combinations; the patent leather LV Baroque design adopts the style of combat boots or Chelsea boots, paired with a contrasting EVA sole with a sloping roof. Additionally, the collection also includes a series of LV Graffiti bags inspired by the graffiti tribute wall created in December 2021 outside Virgil Abloh’s Rue du Pont Neuf studio to commemorate Virgil Abloh’s work. Drawing on the original and colorful language of street art, canvas bags such as the Archy crossbody, Trio crossbody, Keepall, Keepall 25, and Streamer WW are adorned with a multicolored Monogram, reminiscent of dripping spray paint, with two color options available.
As Virgil Abloh said, “My graffiti is inside the buildings.”
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of Louis Vuitotn
