Reviewing history and tradition, it is undeniable that it has become the development trend of major watch manufacturers and brands in recent years, and even a major element in starting the “innovation project”. In 2022, ZENITH presented a perfect demonstration at Watches and Wonders, not only continuing its El Primero legend, but also examining the great masterpiece of the Chronomaster Open series from 2003, bringing a series of new works with the same name. At the same time, during the watch exhibition, a brand exhibition called Master of Chronographs was planned, allowing watch fans to review the classics of the past.
In 2003, under the leadership of then President Thierry Nataf, ZENITH launched the first Chronomaster Open watch with a partially hollowed dial in watchmaking history, marking the brand’s first major project after joining the LVMH group. The debut of the Chronomaster Open hollow watch immediately caused a sensation, with its bold design showcasing the El Primero movement completely on the dial, making it a highly anticipated release in the industry at the time and one of the most distinctive ZENITH watches in the past two decades. This year, the new Chronomaster Open hollow watch presents a new generation of contours and outstanding features, showcasing ZENITH’s watchmaking craftsmanship and the essence of El Primero to the fullest.
The new generation of the Chronomaster Open skeleton watch offers three styles: matte black stainless steel, matte silver stainless steel, and matte silver stainless steel with 18K rose gold accents, reinterpreting the iconic three-color dial design of the classic A386 watch from 1969. The watch factory has also reimagined its unique skeleton design, abandoning the “frame” setting of previous versions in favor of a circular skeleton design with beveled edges, allowing for a view of the modern gray bridges and silicon star-shaped escapement wheel of the new movement through the crystal sub-dials. In comparison, the skeleton part can more effectively showcase the intricate structure of the El Primero movement to the wearer.
To embody the exquisite proportion of the watch, the new generation of watches adopts a more delicate 39.5 mm diameter case, with many details being carefully modified, including slimmer lugs, polished beveled edges of the case, pump pushers with rounded caps, and even the contour lines of the stainless steel bracelet and the polished satin-brushed dial, all made with consideration for the overall design, making the new generation of watches more consistent. Additionally, one of the most important changes is the inner bezel, which has been changed from the previous generation’s tachymeter scale to the current generation’s 1/10 second chronograph scale, while also improving functionality.
It is worth mentioning its movement: the new generation Chronomaster Open can be appreciated through the sapphire crystal case back, featuring the El Primero 3604 1/10 second automatic chronograph movement. This movement is based on the upgraded 3600 caliber introduced in 2021, equipped with openworked mainplate and bridges, allowing a clear view of the operation of the high-frequency 5Hz escapement mechanism, as well as its lubrication-free silicon escapement wheel, escapement fork, and iconic star-shaped oscillating weight. In terms of power reserve, the new 3604 caliber can provide 60 hours of reserve.
The new Chronomaster Open skeleton watch will come with a stainless steel bracelet or a “Cordura” effect rubber strap, with the 18K rose gold version also offering a blue “Cordura” rubber strap; another limited edition model available exclusively in stores features a blue dial with a stainless steel bracelet design. In terms of pricing, the stainless steel model is priced at HKD $78,400, while the 18K rose gold version is priced at HKD $167,500. The full range is now available at ZENITH boutiques and authorized retailers worldwide, so interested friends may want to visit ZENITH boutiques or the official website for more information.
資料及圖片來源：ZENITH
