Having a historical watch factory or brand is undoubtedly one of the most anticipated and curious places for watch enthusiasts with a certain level of knowledge of watches. And Vacheron Constantin, Vacheron Constantin, is definitely one of them. At this year’s Watches and Wonders watch exhibition, the brand brought the constantly innovative Overseas, Patrimony, and even the craftsmanship representative Les Cabinotiers Attic Craftsman series. However, after the brand officially released a series of new works, they were all attracted by the long-unseen Historiques series 222 watch.
What is the new 222 watch like?
Since its official launch in 1977, the 222 series has introduced different styles, from the 37mm diameter, commonly known as the “Jumbo” two-hand design, to the 34mm medium-sized design, the 24mm quartz movement women’s style, and further designs made of precious metals such as gold and platinum, all of which were released during the 7-year production period at that time. In 2022, the brand has introduced a new 222 watch made of 18K 3N yellow gold, retaining its iconic elements, including the 37mm case diameter, grooved bezel, gold-tone dial, bar-shaped hour markers and hands, hexagonal links, integrated bracelet, and the Maltese cross logo at the 5 o’clock position on the case. This logo is made of polished Pd150 platinum and is welded to the flat case.
As for the biggest update, it is of course the new movement housed in the Historiques 222. The original version from 1977 used the ultra-thin 1121 caliber made with a reference to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ultra-thin 920 structure, while the 2022 version uses Vacheron Constantin’s in-house 2455/2 movement, with a thickness of 3.6mm and a power reserve of up to 40 hours. The “222” pattern on the original silver caseback has just been engraved on the new movement’s balance wheel today, visible in its entirety through the transparent caseback.
Why “no one is spared” in the end?
Vacheron Constantin introduced the 222 watch in 1977, not only to commemorate the 222nd anniversary of the brand’s founding, but also to establish its own classic in the trend of “sporty fashion” or “sporty elegance” – although the brand had already made an attempt in 1975 with the Ref. 2215 Chronomètre Royal. However, due to the striking resemblance of the 2215 to the iconic Nautilus and Royal Oak models of the “Big Three” brands Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet at the time, Vacheron Constantin had no choice but to replace the 2215 with an entirely new design.
In the end, a year after the birth of Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin became one of the first prestigious clients of another legendary watchmaker, Jörg Hysek, who founded his own brand, Hysek Styling. They officially adopted the design of the then 24-year-old Jörg Hysek and commissioned third-party experts to produce various components for the watches, including top experts such as Gay Frères, who have been making metal products since the 19th century, and the renowned Geneva watch parts manufacturer Stern Créations.
During the seven-year production period, only fewer than 500 pieces of the stainless steel “Jumbo” style were made, with the gold version limited to about 150 pieces, all styles come with an integrated bracelet. The design of the screw-in porthole-shaped grooves connecting and opening the bezel was the key to making the 222 watch a classic at the time – it was also because of this design that the 222 has been mistakenly thought of as a masterpiece by the legendary master Gerald Genta for many years.
Although this is not Vacheron Constantin’s first integrated bracelet sports watch in history, from a macro perspective, the appearance of the 222 and Jörg Hysek did leave a deep impression on the brand at that time. When it reappeared in 2022, it can be seen that the brand did not simply reshape the original work, but through another fifty years of development, it has endowed the watch with modern, advanced watchmaking skills, reinterpreting the brand’s profound aesthetic accumulation and cultural heritage.
Perhaps the choice of a stainless steel version may be closer to the original design of the 222 watch, even evoking more resonance – just by looking at the auction in Geneva last November, a stainless steel 222 produced in 1977 was sold for 157,500 Swiss francs (approximately over HK$1.33 million). However, one may understand that the brand’s production of the 222 watch in precious metals is a gesture of respect, highlighting its classic status.
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin
