Phillips Auction’s watch department finally welcomes the first highlight auction of 2022, with the auction house just announced that it will hold “The Royal Oak 50th” themed auction in Geneva on May 6, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the iconic design of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series.
In 1969, it was the peak of the legendary designer Gerald Genta’s close collaboration, even friendship, with Georges Golay, the former CEO of Audemars Piguet. That year, Audemars Piguet officially invited Gerald Genta (and representatives) to attend the Basel Fair in Geneva for the first time, introducing several new pieces from the brand. After the Basel Fair ended, Gerald Genta received a sudden call from Georges Golay one afternoon at 4 o’clock, informing him that one of their partners had requested a new watch design that had never been seen in the market before. Audemars Piguet was asked to create a sports watch and needed the complete design by the next morning.
In the end, it is very interesting that due to Gerald Genta’s misunderstanding, this “never seen before on the market” sports watch, originally intended as a revolutionary diving watch, became the most historically valuable Royal Oak watch by Audemars Piguet. Since its launch in 1972, the Royal Oak series has shaken the watch industry, establishing a paradigm for modern luxury sports watches and holding a significant position in the history of global watchmaking.
In this “The Royal Oak 50th” themed auction, Christie’s carefully collected 88 Royal Oak series watches with both excellent condition and rarity. The team responsible for this event’s research and planning is led by Alexandre Ghotbi, the European and Middle Eastern Director of Christie’s Watches, and watch expert and Sales Director Virginie Liatard Roessli.
“The Royal Oak 50th” themed auction, featured item:
Royal Oak model 5402ST “A2”
In this themed auction, Phillips will present the oldest model 5402 in auction history, and this watch marked with the A2 number represents the second Royal Oak watch ever produced.
After three years of development, the Royal Oak watch was officially launched at the Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show in 1972. This watch was one of the four watches presented to the public at the opening ceremony of the exhibition, believed to have been personally displayed by Gerald Genta, further enhancing its historical collectible value. This lot comes with complete accessories and has never been worn, in perfect condition, estimated at 200,000 to 400,000 Swiss francs.
Karl Lagerfeld owned a black PVD-coated Royal Oak “A Series” model 5402ST during his lifetime
The late fashion legend Karl Lagerfeld, also known as the “Old Buddha”, was not only an artist, fashion designer, and photographer, but also a well-known collector. He was known to gift his beloved Royal Oak collection to friends or collaborators as a token of appreciation. The watch being auctioned this time is one that Lagerfeld was often seen wearing, a black PVD-coated version of the Royal Oak in different sizes. It is said that he purchased it in Italy in 1974 during his stay there, and it has been in the possession of the current owner since 1995, spanning over two decades. For watch enthusiasts or collectors familiar with the Royal Oak, the black-coated version, especially the early models, are quite rare; this particular piece is estimated to be worth 100,000 to 200,000 Swiss francs.
Model 25831ST Tourbillon Stainless Steel Watch, Model 25865ST Grand Complication Watch, Model 25990BC Grand Complication Watch
The three masterpieces above are the highly sought-after “Complication” series in the current market. This time, Fuyisi brings: a 1997 model, commemorating the 25th anniversary of the Royal Oak, also the first time a tourbillon function has been added to the series, with only 25 stainless steel tourbillon watches produced to date. The 25831ST model up for auction, with the number one, is estimated at 120,000 to 240,000 Swiss francs; it also features three high-level complications such as minute repeater, double chronograph, and perpetual calendar, showcasing and surpassing the Audemars Piguet’s complex watchmaking craftsmanship with the 25865ST Grand Complication watch, estimated at 250,000 to 500,000 Swiss francs; and finally, the last unique masterpiece, not only featuring high-level complications such as minute repeater, double chronograph, and perpetual calendar, but also with a platinum case, diamond and mother-of-pearl dial, similarly estimated at 250,000 to 500,000 Swiss francs.
Model 25636PT Openwork Platinum Perpetual Calendar Watch, Model 25829TP Openwork Platinum and Tantalum Perpetual Calendar Watch, Model 14802PT Jubilee Platinum Watch
Finally, there are three extremely rare items making their debut. First is one of the earlier transformation models, a perpetual calendar watch made of platinum, showcasing its perpetual calendar movement with an openworked dial, featuring a rare midnight blue sub-dial, without a leap year display. Only 41 platinum versions have been produced to date, estimated at 120,000 to 240,000 Swiss francs. Another piece is also an Openwork perpetual calendar, with only 16 pieces produced, blending the extremely rare metals in watchmaking – platinum with a matte finish and tantalum – creating a captivating and rare blue-gray tone, also estimated at 120,000 to 240,000 Swiss francs.
Also included in this list is a platinum watch named Jubilee, which was launched in 1992 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, with only 20 models produced, model number 14802. The watch being auctioned this time is one of the few with a special blue “Tuscan” dial, hence estimated to be worth 250,000 to 500,000 Swiss francs.
Although this event will not have a preview in Hong Kong this time, for the watch industry and watch enthusiasts, it is definitely a rare and valuable opportunity to once again see the groundbreaking design of Gerald Genta appear at auction. Interested friends, do not miss the “The Royal Oak 50th” themed auction held by Phillips Auction’s watch department in Geneva on May 6th.
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of Phillips Watches ; Audemars Piguet
