In the past two weeks, we have collected a selection of watches that cannot be missed in November for everyone. As we step into December, we must not let everyone miss the sincere works of various brands. This time, the ZTYLEZ MAN editorial team has once again gathered 5 selected watches for everyone, from complicated timepieces to special styles that pay tribute to the brand’s history. Among them, there is even one breakthrough work brought by a watch factory that is extremely popular among watch enthusiasts and collectors. You cannot, should not miss it.
IWC – Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince”
What’s special about the IWC Big Pilot watch? New color? New material? Or a new movement?
The BIG PILOT series watch launched this time is the first special edition “Little Prince” watch with a chronograph function. The mechanical timing function is controlled by a single button. Pressing the button for the first time starts a new timing, pressing it a second time stops it, and the counter at the 12 o’clock position displays the timing time for up to one hour. When the button is pressed for the third time, the timing function will be reset completely.
The button itself is perfectly combined with the unique conical crown. This “Little Prince” special edition watch features a classic deep blue sunburst dial, a case made entirely of stainless steel, and rhodium-plated hands. The hands, hour markers, and inlaid numerals are covered with luminous material for easy reading at night. In terms of movement, it is equipped with the IWC in-house 59365 caliber, one of the three chronograph calibers developed and manufactured by the brand, and the brand’s only manual-winding chronograph caliber. By winding the crown 70 times, it can provide up to 8 days of power reserve. The case back made of sapphire glass allows the power reserve indicator of the movement to be seen, showing the remaining power of the main spring. As a special edition of the BIG PILOT, this “Little Prince” special edition watch is limited to 500 pieces, so all IWC or BIG PILOT watch fans should not miss it.
ZENITH – DEFY DOUBLE TOURBILLON And ZERO-G
Another is a more limited edition watch, a craft-level masterpiece boldly introduced by ZENITH.
The DEFY series launched by ZENITH this time is no longer just a simple upgrade in technology and design, but introduces more complex structural styles, launching two extraordinary movements, and showcasing them through transparent sapphire crystal glass cases. Regarding the two extraordinary movements, ZENITH stated that all movement components are covered with a blue PVD coating, with engravings and decorative elements resembling micro-stars on the bridges. The chamfered edges of the bridges are also coated with a refined ruthenium-colored PVD coating developed specifically by the brand, adding a sense of depth to the movement layout, fully displaying a unique visual effect inspired by the twinkling of stars.
As for the DEFY 21 double tourbillon chronograph in the series, it is currently the fastest tourbillon chronograph watch in the world. The case diameter is 46 millimeters, and the new watch is equipped with two independent tourbillon devices. One tourbillon is used to drive the time and rotates once every 60 seconds, while the other tourbillon is used for the chronograph function and rotates once every 5 seconds. As for the timing known as 1/100 of a second, the central chronograph hand rotates once per second, the 30-minute chronograph subdial is located at the 3 o’clock position, the 60-second chronograph subdial is located at the 6 o’clock position, and the chronograph power reserve indicator is located at the 12 o’clock position. In terms of power reserve, the watch provides a performance of 50 hours.
However, in addition to the DEFY 21 double tourbillon watch this time, ZENITH also brings the 46mm Defy Zero G Sapphire watch. The fully skeletonized Zero G features the El Primero 8812 S hand-wound movement, with its movement module being a “gravity control” gyroscope, the watchmaker fixes the regulating mechanism on a gimbal device, allowing the watch to maintain a horizontal position no matter how it rotates. Moreover, the fully transparent sapphire case embedded this time allows the movement’s contours to be clearly displayed from all angles. In addition, with the eccentric dial concept resembling “suspended in mid-air” used by Zero G, combined with various traditional handcraft techniques, along with the gyroscope module on the back, the main plate and bridges of the movement, beveled edges of the bridges, cylindrical containers, and the mosaic pattern decorated with meteorite, sand gold glass, and grand feu enamel on its gold base, the entire movement module presents an image resembling celestial bodies. When viewed up close, it can be said to be completely captivating.
Panerai – Luminor Chrono Flyback
This time, Panerai is featured again, and once again it is the Luminor series. When you understand this watch below, you will understand why.
Following the modifications made by Marina Quaranta in the previous issue, Paneria is now focusing on a watch from the Luminor family, the 44mm Chrono Flyback Ceramica ceramic watch (PAM01298) and the Chrono Flyback Verde Militare stainless steel watch (PAM01296). The former is crafted from black matte ceramic material, with a lightweight and scratch-resistant case and bezel, showcasing the warm texture and deep color of ceramic, with a sandwich-style black dial adorned with a sunburst pattern; the latter features a matte military green dial paired with a polished stainless steel case, with all numeral hour markers coated with white Super-LumiNova™ luminous paint, emitting a green glow in the dark.
Both watches are equipped with the P.9100 automatic winding movement, with a three-day power reserve. The watches also feature a flyback chronograph function, simply press the button at the 8 o’clock position, the chronograph hands will instantly return to zero, and start running again. When the chronograph function is stopped, pressing this button will reset both chronograph hands to zero at the same time. If you look closely, you will notice that Panerai has printed airspeed scale marks on the two dials, paying tribute to the historical heritage of Panerai’s precision instruments for maritime exploration expeditions. Both flyback chronograph complications are limited editions, with the Chrono Flyback Ceramica available through Panerai brand boutiques and independent retail partners, limited to 500 pieces; while the Chrono Flyback Verde Militare is exclusively available on panerai.com, with a global limited edition of 110 pieces.
Chopard – L.U.C Flying T Twin
Without a powerful conglomerate behind it, nor a history of hundreds of years, Chopard has established an admirable independent spirit. This is probably the impression of the luxury jewelry brand Chopard. What we are introducing this time is the top-notch watch series LU.C in Chopard’s history, and even more so, the new ultra-thin watch L.U.C Flying T Twin equipped with a flying tourbillon movement.
As the first watch equipped with a flying tourbillon L.U.C 96.24-L automatic movement, the new L.U.C Flying T Twin watch features L.U.C Twin technology, with the ultra-thin movement measuring only 3.30 millimeters thick, providing 65 hours of power reserve, equipped with a stacked double barrel and high precision functions, including a stop-seconds function. Of particular note, the 22K gold micro-rotor inside the movement is intricately designed, crafted by master watchmakers at the Chopard watch factory, with each tiny component adorned with Geneva waves, showcasing the meticulous spirit of Chopard and the L.U.C series.
This 40mm ultra-thin L.U.C Flying T Twin, meticulously crafted in 18K white gold, is designed with blue as the main color scheme. The dial features gold hand-guilloché twisted rope motifs embellishing a honeycomb pattern, paying homage to Chopard’s beehive emblem, with the word “Chronometer” engraved below the Chopard logo. The hour ring is decorated with snail pattern, adorned with rhodium-plated hour markers, and the minute track, “L.U. Chopard”, “Chronometer”, and “Swiss Made” inscriptions are all in gold. At 6 o’clock, there is a large diameter window to showcase the movement, while the small seconds display is located on the tourbillon frame. Most importantly, the L.U.C Flying T Twin is limited to 50 pieces.
H.Moser & Cie. – Since 1828 Heritage Bronze
Since this time it includes independent watchmakers, finally, I will present another highly collectible independent watchmaker’s work to everyone.
Recently launched by H. Moser & Cie., inspired by the early 1920s using delicate accessories to transform pocket watches into wristwatches, the limited edition Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” watch can be considered one of Moser’s rarer works in recent years. Similarly, the watch is also a limited edition, with only 50 pieces produced.
There is no futuristic design as in the past, nor the proud movement structure. This new work is created with concepts of history and tradition in mind. In terms of design, Moser retains the round case of the Heritage series, paired with conical lugs and a large textured crown. The case is made of bronze material that will change over time, echoing the carbon gray smoked dial adorned with the H. Moser & Cie. Cyrillic logo, creating a distinct, retro-tinged contrast.
The track-style minute scale is created in white to give a modern appearance, while the sword-shaped hands and unique three-dimensional inlaid numerals are covered with Super-LumiNova® luminous coating. Of particular note is that the dial is made of innovative ceramic base material Globolight®, which can display any shape and color.
Of course, it is worth mentioning the HMC 200 movement it is equipped with. This movement is completely designed, developed, and produced by H.Moser & Cie., equipped with a regulating system manufactured by sister company Precision Engineering AG, providing a minimum of three days of power reserve. It also features the famous Moser double stripes, with the balance cock engraved with the H.Moser logo. The movement module set with 27 diamonds can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. As a sincere creation of H.Moser & Cie. with nearly 200 years of history, the watch factory has also paired the watch with a strap made of large-scale antelope leather (as well as a black NATO strap).
Intentionally or unintentionally, among the 5 watches introduced this time, 4 of them are limited editions. If watch enthusiasts are interested, do not hesitate to go to the specialty store or official website to learn more, or even purchase directly!
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen、ZENITH、Panerai、Chopard & H.Moser & Cie.
