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February 27, 2023

Milan Fashion Week: Gucci 2023 Autumn/Winter Revisits Classic Elements, a Dialogue Between the Past and the Future

Alessandro Michele’s era comes to an end as Gucci announces Sabato De Sarno as the new creative director. His first major show will be held in September of this year. The 2023 Fall/Winter collection during this transitional period will be collaboratively completed by the Gucci design team.

The fashion show will take place in the inner chamber of the Gucci Hub, with a circular stage symbolizing the collaborative cycle at the core of the Gucci creative community. Surrounding the stage are seats made of innovative Demetra material. Models will emerge from an elevator, with the first model catching attention in a crystal-embellished GG metal breastplate, reminiscent of Gucci’s sensual image during the Tom Ford era.

This season aims to revive the influence of past visionary leaders, from Gucci in the 1990s, 2010s, and today, to Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, and Alessandro Michele, presenting the classics and attitudes of different eras in a contemporary manner.

A series of autumn/winter fashion looks reminiscent of Gucci’s design language in the 1990s and early 2000s, with seductive elements, but infused with the captivating luxury of the 2010s. The cuts return to the era of either oversized or cropped styles, playing with the brand’s familiar retro feel. The tailoring of suits is loose, while shirts, two-piece tops, and half skirts appear to be more fitted. Wool or leather suits are cut in oversized silhouettes, paired with textured shoulders, low necklines, and low-waisted pants.

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The rich texture of the loose knitted sweater made of mohair and cashmere, and the colorful fur or synthetic leather sewn on the oversized coat and collar, the exquisite craftsmanship of the evening dress, all have a heart-shaped design that reminds people of the brand’s classic symbol, further enhancing the sensory experience. The Feathered Hat Collection draws on Gucci’s enduring creativity.

As for accessories, in addition to the classic Jackie bag, the new round-edged trapezoid chain handbag is adorned with an enlarged version of the horsebit buckle, and is reshaped with thick padding, fur, crystals, and contrasting leather, bringing focus to the scene. The original snow boots from the 1960s skiing collection are recreated with wool and GG canvas.

There is no specific theme style this season, but rather a conversation that ignites sparks from the past and future, connecting the brand’s history with a creative culture in full bloom. We look forward to seeing what new changes the new creative director, Sabato De Sarno, will bring for the next season.

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