As in the past, Saint Laurent held a fashion show next to the Eiffel Tower in Paris. For the 2022 autumn/winter collection, in addition to the familiar Cantonese golden songs playing in the background, the remix version of “Rare Lover” sung by Sally Yeh amazed us on the other side of the world; the creative style of the collection also makes people feel the cold and glamorous beauty.
Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello takes inspiration from the iconic British socialite Nancy Cunard, drawing from her unconventional style to present a bold, confident, and powerful French fashion taste in the clothing.
Born in 1896, Nancy Cunard was a well-known writer and political activist in the early 20th century. Coming from an aristocratic family, she actively spoke out on issues such as gender, race, and politics, with progressive ideas earning her the title of “rebellious aristocrat.” Her fearless spirit was also reflected in her fashion choices, often seen in a well-tailored leather jacket paired with a long skirt, complemented by wide bracelets extending from her wrists to her elbows, which became one of her signature looks.
Drawing inspiration from Nancy Cunard’s style, Anthony Vaccarello extends her neutral dressing into the new season’s clothing, injecting eye-catching new silhouettes into the collection, such as adding three-dimensional wide shoulder pads to iconic menswear pieces like suits, leather jackets, and short coats, paired with silk jumpsuits and sheer chiffon skirts, creating a powerful and fluid silhouette.
In addition, he also used the bracelet frequently worn by Nancy Cunard to run through the entire series, stacking bracelets made of primitive materials such as silver, gold, and bronze in the styling, injecting a rough personality into the soft styling, while paying tribute to Nancy Cunard’s rebellious spirit.
This season is almost entirely in black, expressing the brand’s sexy charm through extreme black tones; the brand’s iconic Le Smoking is also updated with a loose cut, with Anthony Vaccarello cleverly elongating the suit lines, turning it into a structured slit evening gown, continuing the brand’s fearless DNA.
