Literary master Williams Shakespeare in “Sonnet 18” metaphorically compares summer to a young man, saying, “The eternal summer of youth will never lose the beauty that young people possess.” In Shakespeare’s eyes, the summer sun is sometimes intense, sometimes gloomy, but only the symbol of youth and beauty can surpass everything and remain eternal. This season, looking at the men’s collection presented by Veronique Nichanian for Hermès, whether intentional or not, she seems to share this sentiment.
Vibrant, radiant, and warm, the joyful summer moments spent together are at the core of Hermès Men’s 2023 summer collection. She mentioned after the show that 33 years of tenure did not bring her too much burden, and the summer collection allowed her to follow her heart and showcase the epitome of Hermès men.
The 2023 summer men’s fashion show was held outdoors at the Manufacture des Gobelins, without the many restrictions of the pandemic period. Cyril Teste, who has been collaborating closely with Véronique Nichanian, continued to work with this female designer to decorate the fashion show venue. Following the approach of the 2022 winter collection, he replaced the huge tapestries borrowed from the National Furniture Management Institute of France last season with giant canvases, which were once again hung on the exterior walls of the building, gently fluttering in the breeze before suddenly disappearing, as if sneaking into the brand’s workshop through a window.
The entire series has 53 styles, with the colors of the clothes exuding a sweet poetic feeling: lemon water color, lake blue, lilac purple, bubblegum pink, cantaloupe color, or occasionally a hint of white under the sunlight, or blooming with pastel shades. As night falls, Véronique Nichanian even considers the Hermès man wrapping himself in black tones under the summer night sky, yet wanting to maintain a light and airy state. In the poetic scenery, there are one after another three-dimensional summer scenes, with contours like rippling waves, as if driving the prints to sway gently, urging the loose lines to climb up the free ramp, pockets or structures bending and collapsing, as if taking steps forward, on a soft and flowing small dot, creating a deep sense of layering.
Layers of swaying, paired with various floral designs. Fabrics printed with water droplets, shirts featuring vibrant and charming seahorses or striking giant lobsters, and some knitted garments even have sun-ray patterns. Knit sweaters, deconstructed jackets, silk shirts, wide-leg shorts, suits, canvas-trimmed rubber sandals, Roman-style sandals, colorful sneakers, and more have become the foundation of this season. Véronique Nichanian and the craftsmen continue to showcase workshop craftsmanship, using a range of materials such as Berlingot canvas, suede calfskin, pure cotton voile, and perforated leather to create garments with curved and short cuts, exquisite and neat handwork, allowing a series of clothing to exude a relaxed and casual style.
The holiday atmosphere is in the air, the dream of a foreign land is both joyful and peaceful. The breeze ruffles the clothes, the body feels light as if floating in a pool of sunlight. Gradually, everything about the city fades from the mind. For Veronique Nichanian, in the delightful summer sun, anything magical could happen.
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of Hermès
