Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s Prada always brings anticipation. This statement was once again confirmed at the brand’s SS23 menswear show.
This season, the two continued to brainstorm, as usual, starting with an invitation that attracted everyone, using a large piece of paper “coat” to make the invitation – fortunately Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada do not come from a Chinese background – teasingly not explaining too much about the new season collection. If you have paid attention to the past few seasons of fashion shows, you can probably guess that the men’s SS23 collection may once again focus on the brand’s texture levels – which is what Prada has been dedicated to for the past decade.
“Fashion is an attitude, as well as a way and method of expression. It is an expression of choice,” is how Prada’s official press release introduces it. The theme of this season is “Choice,” where Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada attempt to concretize the design process of this season with a very direct mode of thinking. Miuccia Prada shares, “Whether it’s a coat, jeans, a suit, etc., many garments are basic and very conceptual choices. They may seem simple, but they are all results of the choice process – why choose this particular coat out of hundreds? It is a combination of design, decision-making, and intuition, all related to style.” Therefore, many of the designs seen this season are direct, recognizable, typical pieces that no longer require the audience to spend too much time digesting.
As an audience, I am quite looking forward to the chemistry that the duo “designer duo” leading the brand can create each season; for the men’s wear of Spring/Summer 2023, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons reminded everyone that chemistry can be one level, but guiding everyone clearly and in an orderly manner can be another level.
Miuccia Prada explained how the essence of “choice” shaped this collection, while partner Raf Simons took on the role of a guide, interpreting the essence of “choice” through a total of 48 looks in the collection. The series is primarily based on classic pieces, but the presentation is done in rare combinations, such as men in suits no longer simply wearing formal shoes, double-breasted suits not necessarily tailored at the waist, leather shorts paired with leather vests, coats paired with shorts, layering with double coats, long tops also paired with shorts, creating a unique impact.
Raf Simons explains: “These clothes are classic, their combination is contradictory, giving them a stimulating and novel quality. The clothing combinations are illogical and quirky.” The series has always emphasized choices, but the core idea is about the thought process, not about logic or patterns, but about turning inspiration into a malleable, flexible feeling. The goal is to release both the body and emotions in a decisive and concise process, bringing a fresh and light feeling. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada refer to it as “vitality,” and incorporate it into Prada’s menswear.
Apart from clothing, the two also showcased the concept of “intimacy” through the decorations of the fashion exhibition venue. The space is presented through a model house made of untrimmed paper, exaggerated in scale. The venue reflects human nature and reality in materials and imagery, shaping ordinary and daily elements into extraordinary works – it can serve as a background for clothing or become the main focus, challenging our perception of the environment. After the fashion show, understanding the meaning and significance behind it all, this aspect undoubtedly deserves more applause for these two designers. What may surprise you is that most of the environmental designs seen at the exhibition venue are made of paper.
If you still don’t believe that everything Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada have done this season is so purposeful, just take another look at Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection, from Look 1 to Look 48, you can see all the common or essential items and elements in a men’s wardrobe, suits, leather jackets, coats, shirts, tops, boots, as well as stripes, checks, denim, prints, earth tones, each representing input of thought, but the output can be lively joy and environmental sensuality.
Why not just step into the Prada Men’s 2023 Spring/Summer show and see everything this season? Come on, please come in.
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of PRADA
