After making its debut in Paris in March, led by Guram Gvasalia, VTMNTS is back; and according to the brand’s designer and founder: “I want to be the ‘first’.” VTMNTS chose to make its appearance in Milan Men’s Fashion Week (and Pitti Uomo) before the opening of Paris Fashion Week, not just as talk, but as a pioneer creating a utopian future for the fashion world and the real world.
Unlike the presentation in March, as the second physical fashion show since the establishment of VTMNTS, Guram Gvasalia chose to demonstrate digitally, abandoning the live presentation. Whatever the reason may be, let’s temporarily believe that he hopes to echo the “ideal world” he wants to convey this season, and thus deliberately create a sense of distance with the audience. Guram Gvasalia shared: “We are in a church of the future, as long as you are true to yourself, you belong here. The main message of this series is gender equality. It’s all about understanding who you are, being true to your beliefs.”
SS23’s presentation, the entire team moved from France to the major Swiss city of Zurich. At the local airport, Guram Gvasalia noticed that the arched ceiling looked like a cathedral, and when the light passed through the top to the ground, it presented a barcode-like shadow, coincidentally matching the brand identity of VTMNTS, thus giving the brand a strong presence. Therefore, hoping to create a “Church of Future” kingdom through this series.
Remaining true to oneself, a simple yet powerful theme, becomes the core idea of this season’s VTMNTS. Guram Gvasalia presents a men’s and women’s collection that embodies the values of this theme. With a total of 39 looks, almost all models showcase outerwear as the focal point, ranging from short puffer jackets, leather coats, belted suits, to aviator jackets, waterproof trench coats, etc. The cuts feature exaggerated oversized shoulders, sleeveless designs, and some designs even incorporate multiple materials to create a layered effect, such as two aviator jackets layered, one pair of pants revealing another pair of jeans, etc., all serving as Guram Gvasalia’s gradual challenge to the boundaries of VTMNTS and the public.
Guram Gvasalia likes these exaggerated layers and the passion implied by these proportions that can be shown in clothing design. Mention must be made that this season’s men’s and women’s collections feature more sexy combinations and cuts, with several looks in the men’s collection featuring jackets and shirts cut only below the chest, revealing muscular abs, paired with denim hot pants and thigh-high boots, providing designs commonly seen in women’s collections equally to men’s collections. In terms of color, various materials are used, including earth tones, reflective silver leather, and bright red.
Finally, Guram Gvasalia specifically mentioned one of the experiments this season, which is consumerism in the fashion industry today. He revealed that the first show in March was a great success, with over 100 retailers placing immediate orders. Therefore, this season still features popular items among the Gen X generation, such as hoodies, tracksuits, bomber jackets, etc., which he believes is almost inevitable. For the VTMNTS team, the real difference lies in the brand’s and design’s solid craftsmanship – tailoring and vision.
資料及圖片來源：VTMNTS
