Entering 2022, the places Kim Jones has visited in just five months include Paris, Tokyo, Rome, Milan, the Vatican, Hawaii, and Los Angeles, where the Dior Men’s Spring 2023 show just took place. His non-stop schedule is not just work, but also life, leisure, and experiences. You have to admit that the ability to present different creative designs each season is not by chance.
The Spring 2023 fashion show in Los Angeles no longer takes place in a historically significant building, but directly in the middle of the Venice Beach – actually located on Windward Avenue, the epicenter of Venice’s century-old Renaissance – creating a symbolic “blue sea” representing the local beach, echoing the local cultural atmosphere. In terms of design, Eli Russell Linnetz draws inspiration from the local historical culture for the collection, injecting a continuous stream of creative energy into the clothing, creating a fashionable realm for Dior’s new Spring 2023 menswear collection, as Creative Director Kim Jones shared, ERL and its founder Eli Russell Linnetz explore DIOR from different perspectives.
“I chose to collaborate with young designer Eli Russell Linnetz to design Dior menswear, not only because I love his work, but also because his way of looking at things can inspire my creativity. This feeling is both familiar and inspiring, reminding us of the original intention of entering the fashion industry.” Kim Jones shared.
At just 31 years old, Eli Russell Linnetz, who grew up on Venice Beach, might never have brought ERL to life if he hadn’t “been forced” into it by meeting the legendary Adrian Joffe. His thought-provoking, free-spirited creations might not have become a reality. A graduate of a film school, Eli Russell Linnetz has collaborated with the likes of Kanye West, Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga, and others. His experiences in various roles have brought him endless imagination and creative space, allowing him to continuously expand beyond his conventional nature.
The two designers combine their own experiences to reinterpret the classic clothing and collections released by Christian Dior over the years, while also paying tribute to the brand’s past leaders and designers, including founder Mr. Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré who led the brand in the 90s, and Kim Jones himself. Eli, who also grew up in the 90s, shares: “I drew inspiration from the ‘maximalism’ of that era (Gianfranco Ferré’s Dior era), blending chaos and perfectionism. The entire collection emphasizes the collision of different moments and histories, spanning decades and spaces.”
Growing up in a rebellious environment, Eli seamlessly integrates popular elements and American menswear style into the brand’s classic theme patterns. For example, embellishing sneakers with satin and leather, the Cannage rattan pattern inspired by California sunsets, or adorning trousers with crystal Cannage rattan “waves” inspired by Venice Beach surfing culture. Eli even collaborates with milliner Stephen Jones to create handcrafted hats, symbolizing the irresistible cultural vitality of the California coast. Maison Dior and Eli Russell Linnetz blend perfectly with the two worlds of California’s West Coast.
Out of a total of 40 styles in the entire collection, the skilled craftsmen at the workshop skillfully use fabrics to pay tribute to the Ferré-Dior collection. From the seemingly reversed suit, the Cannage patterned sweater made of wool, the sparkling mini Saddle Bag, the top with the iconic yin and yang pattern of ERL, to the careful arrangement of colors that fully highlight the history of Dior and the impression of the ERL brand; even in the design of individual pieces, the combination of the vitality of ERL and the craftsmanship of DIOR is evident. Every seemingly casual detail actually showcases the creative fusion of the two designers.
The vibrant and energetic design is Eli Russell Linnetz’s eternal proposition in creation and design. He revealed that this collaboration was so interesting because he boldly shared with Kim Jones the time point of the 1990s, symbolizing not only the craftsmanship era of Ferré-Dior, but also evoking the most eagerly awaited Christmas holiday in California. Therefore, this time is also inspired by Tinsel Town, reminiscent of Christmas decorations, integrating many decorative elements into DIOR’s precise tailoring and exquisite craftsmanship, envisioning each model as a “Christmas gift” that can be wrapped, such as the crystal-like gradient sweatshirts in Look 15, Look 32, and Look 36.
The cape, a half beach towel and half Hollywood royal bathrobe, made its debut as the showstopper – this is also Eli’s recent masterpiece: a handmade piece created for A$AP Rocky when he attended the Met Gala last year.
The brand, in a behind-the-scenes short film, interviewed the collaboration and communication process between Eli and Kim Jones, showing that the latter also made bold attempts: taking a chance, trying out their own vision, allowing Eli Russell Linnetz, whom they invited, to freely “play” with the timeless craftsmanship of Dior, all in the hopes of bringing about unprecedented breakthroughs for DIOR.
When American men’s wear meets French timeless fashion, even as Eli Russell Linnetz described his collaboration with Kim Jones: “Unexpected, not as formal as I imagined, it’s relaxed, seamless.”
