With the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic, I would describe the fashion industry in the past two years as experiencing an era – a time that has detached from reality and from true self. Entering the era of the pandemic, many brands and designers have gained the opportunity to hold independent exhibitions, in the hope of rediscovering themselves, self-digestion opportunities and space. This phenomenon is definitely a healthy advancement for the fashion industry, which has always been developing too rapidly. However, this simple truth has long been demonstrated by Jacquemus, and each season is clearer than the last.
Just now, Jacquemus staged the fashion show of the new collection Le Splash, founder and designer Simon Porte Jacquemus continued the practice of the past few seasons, going to remote places to release the new season collection. However, this time the venue is even further than you can imagine, as the brand came to “here”.
There are no lavender fields, no wheat fields, this season Simon Porte Jacquemus led the brand to the O’ahu Islands in Hawaii for a presentation, with a long ultramarine blue runway echoing the vastness of the island piercing through the Moli’i Gardens Beach on O’ahu, unveiling his spring collection, setting a heavenly scene for the brand’s first fashion show outside of France. Despite a sudden downpour before the show, causing a delay of an hour and a half, the heavy rain during that hour created a perfect post-rain atmosphere at the venue. Especially, it was revealed that guests were not allowed to use their phones during the show, making the whole event even more ideal.
Why not take a good look at what this season’s Jacquemus has to offer, instead of just focusing on the latest trends?
After the rain, the fashion show officially begins. The opening look is a “very Jacquemus” sandy linen vest jumpsuit, and it’s not until the 7th look that other “characters” gradually make their appearance – azure blue, lake blue, grass green, powder blue, iconic Jacquemus peach pink, orange, light yellow, lime green, and finally, the last four black looks.
In terms of design, this season’s Jacquemus takes “water” as inspiration, referencing various water sports (which is believed to be related to Simon Porte Jacquemus’s lifestyle habits) to design different clothing. In the series, techniques such as pleating, cutting angles, tying, layering, transparency, and accessories can be seen, focusing on the changes in tailoring and silhouettes. He deliberately plays with proportions to create asymmetry or intentionally exaggerate slimness, turning swimsuits into intimate clothing, suits with backless features, and workwear into beachwear, creating an interesting and provocative look.
Furthermore, this season Simon Porte Jacquemus has collaborated with artist Tanya Lyons to create three-dimensional patterns using pearl accessories, expressing that “water droplets” are the source of life. This not only adds beauty but also showcases his clever ideas.
Traveling to a distant place to showcase a brand during Fashion Week is never a simple task, even if, like Jacquemus, they never consider whether the guests can generate buzz for the fashion show on the spot, or whether the brand can stand out. Such a laborious decision also carries a certain amount of risk. However, for the decision to visit Hawaii this time, Simon Porte Jacquemus shared the reasons behind it on the brand’s IG after the fashion show (original content can be found here).
He shared that with the help of his Hawaiian friends, Ben Perreira and creative director Taylor Okata, he successfully brought the brand, fashion show, and himself to Hawaii, taking a big step forward for the brand. Simon Porte Jacquemus explained in an interview after the show: “I think the Jacquemus woman is not French – she is a sunny person. That is the meaning of the brand: sharing, sunshine, love, and family.” Therefore, Simon Porte Jacquemus, who has always dreamed of visiting here, sees this season as the pinnacle of the brand and his dream. Understanding and respecting the local culture, lifestyle, and colonialism, he and Ben Perreira arranged for the fashion show to be staffed by local indigenous people, from the fashion show staff, runway design team, models, and hospitality staff. Even the invited guests were personally chosen by him, all from the Pacific region and the inland United States.
You cannot deny that after watching Jacquemus’ fashion show, it is rare to see guests standing and applauding with expressions of admiration on their faces, but you can (from a distance) feel that fashion shows, even clothing, always emit an indescribable joy. However, this feeling of being connected to nature may have to come to an end here, because Simon Porte Jacquemus revealed the direction of the next season after the show, saying, “This is my last trendy collection. Next season, I will return to something super feminine, which is a new part of Jacquemus’ identity.”
資料及圖片來源：Web Photo ; Darryl Oumi
