Since taking over Dior menswear, Kim Jones has used various experiments to express his relationship with the brand, founder Mr. Christian Dior, and clothing design for several seasons, interpreting calmly, interestingly, and comprehensively. In 2022, Kim Jones shared through the Dior menswear 2022/2023 winter collection, reflecting on and appreciating what he has absorbed from Dior and Mr. Christian Dior from a personal perspective for several seasons, allowing everyone to truly understand the true value of Maison Dior.
There is no exaggeration, this is already Kim Jones’ 11th fashion show since taking office, crossing Tokyo, Miami, and London, this season Kim Jones returns to his “home” – Place de la Concorde in Paris, reconstructing the Alexander III Bridge as previewed in the venue, and presenting 49 Dior gentlemen.
I thought there wouldn’t be a strong collaboration as before, but in FW22/23, we can still see the low-key collaboration shoes brought by the German century-old sandal brand Birkenstock (friends who have read the preview before, I believe have already known). And the team, still Kim Jones, Yoon Ahn, Victoire de Castellane, Lucy Beeden, Brian Moore, Simon Parris, Melanie Ward, and also the hat master Stephen Jones, who is celebrating his 25th anniversary as a designer.
Another important point to mention is that this presentation also marks the 75th anniversary of Dior’s establishment. Kim Jones, who made his debut in this significant year, showcased a different kind of strength in the collection. Kim Jones shared: “I wanted to look back at the brand’s archives, to see the purity and the original impulse of the brand’s inception. We explored the early collections, focusing on their structure, transforming these elements into a masculine vibe suitable for today’s era, while always preserving the core elements of passion for life in Christian Dior’s clothing.”
Therefore, Kim Jones incorporates Dior’s iconic elements into this season’s designs, from tailoring techniques, silhouette cuts, classic prints, to overall aesthetics, creating a language that belongs to the modern Dior gentleman. Of note is the introduction of a new clothing silhouette inspired by Dior’s legendary design, the Bar Jacket. Kim Jones dedicated extra time to this collection, studying the craftsmanship of the Bar Jacket and the men’s fabric materials in Dior’s atelier, then embarking on a transformation project to ensure that the soul of the Bar Jacket is embedded in the Dior menswear in his hands.
A group of craftsmen carefully studied the construction of the Bar Jacket, presenting the most iconic element of the Bar Jacket – the cinched waist silhouette – with a more direct sewing technique, making the lines of the waist, upper body, and lower body stand out. Moreover, applying it to coats made of traditional men’s suiting fabric, intentionally leaving behind deconstructive features rarely seen in Dior designs such as exposed white stitching and frayed edges, creating a representative silhouette unique to Dior menswear. The Bar Jacket created by Mr. Christian Dior himself was a short formal women’s jacket, and Kim Jones’ idea is to present the “Bar silhouette” in designs such as double-breasted suits, coats, and suit jackets.
In the Dior Men’s Fall/Winter 2022/2023 collection, all pieces echo each other with the exquisite craftsmanship of the French studio, from the classic style with luxurious elements to the unexpected blend of modern sportswear and technical materials used in coats, creating a mix of formal and elegant styles.
In addition to the above Bar silhouette being the focus, the series also includes a variety of designs that showcase the epitome of Dior craftsmanship, including two pieces inspired by the 1960s Dior Haute Couture series Heritage Diamond design, appearing in Look 4 and Look 5, each taking 600 hours and 536 hours to create respectively; two knitted garments made in reference to the classic 1949 design Miss Dior; and three jackets and tops designed in reference to the classic 1953 Heritage Flower private haute couture evening dress. Every silk, every braid, has been meticulously researched by Kim Jones and archival experts, using original designs.
It is worth mentioning that Look 2, the model’s hands are put on, but the embroidery is not clearly presented, is a design that took the most hours this season – up to 1087 hours – to create, fully showcasing Dior’s exquisite craftsmanship. In addition, the series also features a variety of symbols and motifs that are full of personal emotions and meanings for Christian Dior: stars, roses, houndstooth, leopard print, lilies of the valley, and chains; especially in jewelry, this season’s menswear jewelry designer Yoon Ahn collaborated with brand jewelry design director Victoire de Castellane to create a variety of elegant accessories made of diamonds and emeralds, bringing a new glamorous style to men.
To achieve the style of a modern gentleman, this has become the place where Kim Jones interprets his unique aesthetics. Kim Jones mentioned in the post-show sharing that the gray tone seen this season is not only his favorite color, but also reminds him of the 2005 autumn collection he launched under his own brand 20 years ago, and at the same time incorporates the same sporty silhouette into this season’s Dior menswear. As stated in the fashion show appendix: the styling reflects the passage of time and the designer’s continuous design, bridging the past, present, and future of the brand.
Kim Jones has always brought a sense of restraint, lightness, and elegance to Dior menswear, with practicality being a key consideration. In the handbag collection this season, the practicality and decorative nature of men’s accessories are explored. The new Dior Corolle Tote, lightweight bags, three-dimensional vertical clutches, and a sparkling version of the Saddle Bag interpreted by Kim Jones’ friend, supermodel Naomi Campbell, are all featured. Finally, master milliner Stephen Jones, who made a joint appearance with Kim Jones, has redesigned the Doris men’s beret.
Accurate and nuanced translation: “Indeed, Kim Jones’ tenure has consistently brought different topical collaborations, from KAWS, Ambush, Shawn Stussy, to Air Jordan, Travis Scott, Sacai, making every season a focal point. However, for Kim Jones himself, his duty has never been about seeking attention, as he himself said: ‘Dior is about making you feel very modern when you see the works in the collection.'”
資料及圖片來源：Courtesy of DIOR
