The second Prada menswear collection, co-designed by Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, officially debuted recently. Without pre-show tours or post-show student Q&A sessions, what is SS22 menswear show about? Their answer is: Tunnel to Joy, Urgencies of Feelings, and Utopia of Normality.
When most brands choose to make every effort to bring physical shows back in front of the audience, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s approach is: don’t rush, take it step by step.
The six-minute video is released, once again featuring Raf Simons as a great partner in music, with Techno pioneer Richie Hawtin (a.k.a Plastikman) at the helm (basically, this is a necessary mention).
The first appearance is a male model in an all-black outfit, wearing the classic triangular Prada fisherman hat, walking with mechanical steps in a bright red tunnel – personally reminiscent of seeing the silhouette of Darth Vader from the “Star Wars” series, as well as the corridors of Xavier School from “X-Men” and the classic scene from “Ex-Machina”. However, the most interesting aspect of the Prada men’s SS22 scene is that Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s intentions have nothing to do with the aforementioned associations.
Here, let’s leave it at that for now.
Compared to designs like FW21 and SS21, appreciating the SS22 collection can probably be envisioned as “city outfits that can easily transition to the beach or ocean.”
The novelty of this series lies in the alternating lightweight sportswear with drawstrings at the waist, “vest bag” knitted vests, and high-waisted shorts in hot pants style; proportionally, the combination of long tops and short bottoms, loose tops and narrow bottoms, thick tops and thin bottoms creates a rich layered look even when wearing a single garment, echoing the design concepts emphasized in the past two seasons and the theme of marine vitality for this season.
Of course, details such as patterns of mythological sea creatures, fisherman hats with mini pockets, oversized shoulder bags made of recyclable plastic or striped canvas, all highlight Raf Simons’ obsession with fantasy. Most unexpectedly, thick leather jackets also appear in the collection, with one even treated with a technique that absorbs seawater to oxidize and discolor it. Could it be that Raf Simons has envisioned creating clothing that would be damaged at the beach for everyone?
In the blink of an eye, the models walked out of the blood-red space one by one. From the extremely dazzling bright red tunnel to the sunshine and beach, what are the two actually talking about? Miuccia Prada shared first: “This is a utopian, ideal, hopeful, and positive feeling. Immersing oneself in nature, going to the beach, is synonymous with freedom. It is utopian. This is indeed a basic need, as well as an intellectual need.”
Compared to what FW21 refers to as “second skin,” it seems that Raf Simons wants to express a more direct idea this time: “This collection is very simple, practical, yet elegant. Many of the clothes are for swimming, although pure and simple, they are still tailored. Everything is pure and simple. No overloaded silhouettes. The same contours of two solutions are suitable for both the city and the beach, but in different ways. This collection is a celebration of the beauty and freedom of the human body.”
Driven by fearless courage, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons seem to have once again become clear about what they want to experience and present for Prada in this generation and environment. After rediscovering the lost tactile sensations between people last season, this time the two want to express a sense of utopian idealism, choosing to showcase on the island of Sardinia in the southwest, and setting the scene from a tunnel to the beach, symbolizing a journey from the city to nature, breaking free from complexity to seek pure happiness and innocence.
At this moment, Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s approach to whether Prada should return to the traditional fashion world is: don’t rush, let everything start from the essence again.
圖片來源：Courtesy of Prada
