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February 28, 2023

Milan Fashion Week: SPORTMAX 2023 Autumn/Winter Explores “Nudity,” the Androgynous Freedom Charm

To bare oneself is a revolution, and to celebrate one’s body is a great revolution. The SPORTMAX 2023 Autumn/Winter collection explores the meaning of “bare” and the freedom and charm of androgyny.

Works by artists and photographers such as Peter Hujar, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Nan Goldin have served as inspiration for this season’s designs. The individuals captured through their lenses bare their bodies and souls, constantly hovering between intimacy and exposure, allure and decadence, vulnerability and resilience. They vividly interpret the enigmatic puzzles hidden within this act of baring oneself. Peter Hujar once said, “I am fascinated by those who push themselves to the limit, those who chase freedom and self-expression.”

Further reading:

In this series, not only is the “naked” or “pure state” of things described. The full set of skin-colored suits opens the fashion show, and the series interprets the essence of human nature through the use of different fabrics and elements to create clothing. Soft leather, transparent knits, jelly, tassels, velvet, and shimmering fabrics fully demonstrate the contrasting elegance, simplicity, and charm between masculine and feminine qualities.

In terms of color tones, it showcases a diverse range, including neutral tones such as skin color, beige, and camel, as well as vibrant shades of brown highlighted by yellow-brown, caramel, and turmeric colors. There are also delicate peach colors that complement these hues, occasionally adorned with deep and rich black tones. The midsection features a stimulating red snake pattern that stimulates the visual senses. The wide-legged pants and padded shoulder designs draw inspiration from Zoot suits and Teddy Boys styles, highlighting exquisite craftsmanship. The 90s classic jumpsuit stands out once again, exuding a renewed charm: with its straight, knee-length, and eye-catching layered design, it injects a dynamic vitality into the lightweight and transparent silhouette, swaying gracefully with the body’s movements. Jumpsuits and knitted sweaters are combined with hollow knits or garter belt details, showcasing the feminine side. In one of the looks, the model is topless and wears loose pants with suspenders, perfectly echoing the theme of androgyny.

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